2012 CORVETTE COUPE

INTERNET SPECIAL

2012 CORVETTE COUPE

Total Confidence Pricing

With Total Confidence Pricing, the price you see is the price you pay-plain and simple. So you can rest assured you're getting a great deal on your Chevy, with no need to negotiate. To us, that's Total Confidence.

Love It or Return It

We're so confident you'll love your new Chevy, we'll give you up to 60 days to make sure of it with our new Love It or Return it Guarantee. Buy a new Tahoe, and if you're not happy, you can bring it right back. Needless to say, we're pretty confident you won't want to let it go. That's Chevy Confidence.

Must return between 30-60 days. Mileage and Damage limitations apply. Excludes leases. Excludes GM and Dealer Employees. See Terms & Conditions

Prices do not include additional fees and costs of closing, including government fees and taxes, any finance charges, any dealer documentation fees, any emissions testing fees or other fees. All prices, specifications and availability subject to change without notice. Contact dealer for current information

* EPA Estimates Only
* Tax, title and license are extra. Not available with special finance and lease programs, and some other offers. Applies only to 2012 models. Take delivery by 9/4/12. See dealer for details. Excludes the love it or return guarantee.

Offer expires: 09/04/2012

2012 IMPALA

INTERNET SPECIAL

2012 IMPALA

Total Confidence Pricing

With Total Confidence Pricing, the price you see is the price you pay-plain and simple. So you can rest assured you're getting a great deal on your Chevy, with no need to negotiate. To us, that's Total Confidence.

Love It or Return It

We're so confident you'll love your new Chevy, we'll give you up to 60 days to make sure of it with our new Love It or Return it Guarantee. Buy a new Tahoe, and if you're not happy, you can bring it right back. Needless to say, we're pretty confident you won't want to let it go. That's Chevy Confidence.

Must return between 30-60 days. Mileage and Damage limitations apply. Excludes leases. Excludes GM and Dealer Employees. See Terms & Conditions

Prices do not include additional fees and costs of closing, including government fees and taxes, any finance charges, any dealer documentation fees, any emissions testing fees or other fees. All prices, specifications and availability subject to change without notice. Contact dealer for current information

* EPA Estimates Only
* Tax, title and license are extra. Not available with special finance and lease programs, and some other offers. Applies only to 2012 models. Take delivery by 9/4/12. See dealer for details. Excludes the love it or return guarantee.

Offer expires: 09/04/2012

Check Out Our Internet Specials!

http://www.allensamuelschevroletcorpus.com/specials/new.htm

2013 Chevy Malibu priced at $23,150

General Motors has officially released pricing for the 2013 Chevrolet Malibu. The base LS model starts at $23,150 including a $760 destination fee. The entry-level Malibu bows with a 2.5-liter four-cylinder engine with 197 horsepower that's also found in LT and LTZ models. While the Environmental Protection Agency hasn't released official figures as of yet, GM expects the sedan to yield fuel economy in the mid 30s thanks in part to the standard six-speed automatic transmission.

If you're counting pennies, you may have noticed the new model is around $280 more expensive than its predecessor. The entry price also sticks the 2013 Chevrolet Malibu above competitors like the 2012 Ford Fusion, Toyota Camry and Honda Accord, though 2013 pricing is still missing on all of those models.

There is good news for buyers looking to snag a loaded Malibu, however. Top LTZ trim now starts at $28,590, which is a full $770 less expensive than last year. Stepping up to the new 2.0-liter, turbocharged four-cylinder engine in LTZ trim will set you back $30,925, however. The engine cranks out 259 horsepower and 260 pound-feet of torque. Check the full press release below for more information.

Roadside Emergency Kit

Even if you faithfully follow our 10 maintenance tips, some breakdowns are unavoidable. Do yourself a favor and save some room in your trunk for the following items. They could turn a potential trip-wrecker into nothing more than an unexpected pit stop:

• Screwdrivers and wrenches of various sizes
• Jumper cables
• A jack and tire iron
• A can of "Fix-a-Flat" for temporarily sealing and inflating a flat tire
• Water for both the radiator and yourself
• Emergency flares and reflectors
• Gloves
• Blanket and towel
• Flashlight

Maintain Your Air Conditioning

If you've ever lost your air conditioning on a hot summer day, then you know what a big difference a little cool air makes. The best way to tell if your air conditioner has a problem is if it can't generate or maintain air temperatures that are 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius) below the ambient outside air temperature.

The most common cause of a malfunctioning air conditioning unit is a low level of refrigerant. This could be caused buy a leak somewhere in the system. Since modern air conditioning systems are complicated creatures, it's best to have a professional check out the problem.

The air conditioning maintenance industry has changed a lot since 1994, when the Federal government outlawed the use of a refrigerant called R-12, known by its brand name Freon. In the past, if your air conditioner wasn't blowing cool air, you'd head down to the service shop, they'd top your car off with a little Freon and you'd be on your way.

The problem is that Freon, a chlorofluorocarbon, is extremely destructive to the ozone layer. Most people needed Freon refills because they had leaks. By simply refilling the leaky air conditioning units, millions of pounds of Freon were entering the atmosphere every year.

If your car was built before 1994, then you need to have your refrigerant checked out by a licensed professional who knows how to dispose of or recycle the material. In some states, it's illegal to refill a leaky system with R-12. However, even older cars can be easily retrofitted to use the newer, safer type of refrigerant called R-134a.

Clean Your Battery

Wintertime is notorious for dead batteries and early morning jumpstarts. But the truth is that hot weather is even tougher on your battery.

Summer heat can speed up the chemical reaction inside a battery, causing the battery to be overcharged . This can dramatically shorten the lifespan of your battery. Heat can also damage the battery by evaporating internal battery fluid.

The best way to keep your battery running smoothly is to keep it clean. Regularly detach the battery cables and wipe off the terminals. Make sure the battery is strapped down tightly and that all connections are secure.

If you suspect that your battery is being overcharged or isn't holding a charge well, take it to a service shop where they can run a quick battery inspection. And if you need to replace the battery, make sure that it's the right battery type for your specific make and model of car.

Check the Coolant and Radiator

Cars are designed to run hot, but there's a limit to how hot they should run. A combustion engine is most efficient at around 200 degrees Fahrenheit (93 degrees Celsius). But if an engine is allowed to get too hot, moving metal parts can actually start to melt and fuse together, causing a variety of internal problems for your engine -- and, you guessed it, a hefty repair bill.

Luckily, all modern cars have an ingenious cooling system that uses a chemical coolant, called antifreeze, and a series of pumps, hoses, thermostats and fans to keep the car at its optimal running temperature. But any problems with this system -- low coolant levels, cracked hoses, loose or broken belts, a leak in the radiator or even a loose or missing radiator cap can cause your car to overheat and break down.

The summertime is tough on cooling systems. Sitting in traffic on a hot day is one of the quickest ways to overheat your car. This is because there's no air flowing across the engine to help keep it cool. A well-tuned cooling system can take long idles in hot weather, but if you have low coolant levels or a busted fan belt, your engine temperature is going to go up -- and fast.

Check under the hood and make sure that your coolant levels are fine. The general rule is to flush your radiator and add new coolant at least every two years. Flushing the radiator is done with a special chemical that cleans debris and build-up on the inside of the radiator. For summer driving, coolant should be added as a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and water. You can even buy premixed coolant so you don't have to bother with the measurements.

If you see a small puddle of coolant under your car when it's been parked for a while, then you have a coolant leak. Take it to the service station as soon as you can to get your system checked out.

Check Your Brakes

Your brakes are the single most important safety feature on your car. Don't put yourself or your family at risk this summer by riding around on worn down or faulty brakes.

Brakes need to be replaced when the lining on your brake pad or brake shoe is worn down past the minimum thickness specified by the car manufacturer or state law [source: Yahoo! Autos]. You can have your brake linings checked at any normal service shop or at a brake specialist.

Here are some signs that your brakes need to be checked:

    Your brake pedal becomes very soft and mushy
    Your brake pedal is very hard and resistant
    Your brake pedal rests too low or too high
    Indication or warning lights on the dashboard
    Loud and constant scraping and grinding sounds coming from the brakes

Interestingly, squealing brakes are not necessarily a sign of a problem. Brakes squeal and squeak for a wide variety of reasons, including moisture on the brake pads, discs, shoes and drums. You should only become concerned if the squealing becomes a scraping or grinding noise. This is a sign of metal-to-metal contact, which can permanently damage brake parts.

If you notice a brake problem, it pays to have it inspected or repaired as soon as possible. The cost of a brake repair can increase dramatically if even minor problems aren't fixed in a timely manner.

Change the Air Filter

Over the winter, your car's air filter can get clogged with salt and other thick debris. A clogged air filter can really lower your fuel efficiency. Replacing a dirty or clogged air filter can improve gas mileage by as much as 10 percent.

But how do you know when to change your air filter? The recommended interval is every 12,000 miles (19,312 kilometers), but that can be affected by the particular road and air conditions in which you drive. If you do a lot of driving on dirt or gravel roads, then your air filter is going to clog up much faster than an air filter in a vehicle that's used strictly for highway driving. The only real way to know if you need to replace your air filter is take it out and give it a quick inspection.

Interestingly, a slightly dirty air filter works better than a totally clean one. This is because the debris in the filter becomes part of the filtering process, trapping smaller particles that might have otherwise slipped past.

There's no real science to knowing when it's time to replace the filter. If it's really filthy, then it obviously needs to be changed. Otherwise, go with your gut. If you're preparing for a long summer of hard driving, then you might as well replace it. Air filters are relatively inexpensive.